Intervista a Chiara Pavan – Cheffe di Venissa
Questo mese per De-LAB intervistiamo Chiara Pavan, cheffe del Ristorante Venissa di Mazzorbo (VE), 1 stella Michelin e 1 Stella Verde Michelin. La sua esperienza ci condurrà alla scoperta della ristorazione sostenibile. Buona lettura!
La ristorazione in Italia è un settore in continua crescita, così come gli impatti socio-ambientali ad essa correlati: gestione di scarti alimentari, differenziazione dei rifiuti, ecc. Come vedi il ruolo della ristorazione nei confronti delle sfide di sostenibilità socio-ambientale che ci attendono?
Il tema più importante a riguardo è la gestione dei sistemi alimentari e dei relativi impatti, soprattutto a livello di approvvigionamento delle materie prime. Occorre capire bene dove sono gli scarti maggiori, se a casa o nel comparto della ristorazione, che se è strutturata bene può ridurre lo scarto alimentare al minimo. Ovviamente lo sguardo va dato alla macro-figura, ossia la lotta al cambiamento climatico, l’educazione al cibo. Personalmente faccio parte di un progetto europeo che prova a dare strumenti agli chef per avere un impatto più basso nelle loro pratiche quotidiane, nei loro menù. Il senso è contare sulla visibiltà degli chef come testimoni di un cambiamento. Questa è la speranza, anche perché le politiche alimentari responsabili vanno ben oltre la ristorazione, noi siamo solo degli attori. Basti pensare alla questione della carne coltivata che è totalmente ideologica, gestita per favorire gli allevamenti intensivi con politiche top-down. In questo contesto, se hai sempre servito costate di manzo lo farai ancora.
Esiste una ristorazione d’eccellenza che sceglie con cura materie prime, origini e quantità, non accontentandosi di seguire le mode. Secondo te come poter dare più voce e più peso “politico” a questo diverso approccio?
Servirebbero degli incentivi, a meno che tu non porti avanti un agriturismo, la ristorazione che vira verso la sostenibilità ha costi del lavoro molto alti. Per fare scelte coraggiose servono risorse.
La cucina è tradizionalmente un settore aperto a contaminazioni, commistioni, esperimenti: quali sono a tuo avviso i più interessanti e quali messaggi si intende trasmettere al consumatore/cliente?
Credo che il concetto di tradizione sia un po’ problematico in Italia perché cozza con l’evoluzione della cucina. Per esempio il “classico” cibo della laguna – seppioline e pesce locale – non esiste più.
La quotidianità è fatta di granchi blu che io servivo ben prima che diventassero d’attualità.
Il problema è l’aspettativa del cliente rispetto alla tradizione. La cucina in questo senso fa cultura e apre nuovi spazi per un mondo che si evolve. In questo quadro il denominatore comune è il gusto: in ogni tempo il palato va soddisfatto e le cose devono essere buone. Quindi un gusto che mette d’accordo, apre alle persone delle porte verso ingredienti nuovi – indipendentemente che siano di altre culture – per cercare di aprire mentalmente le persone verso nuovi prodotti che devono iniziare a conoscere.
Credi nella possibilità di democraticizzare un tipo di ristorazione e di alimentazione a basso impatto ambientale, o pensi che rimarranno approcci per un pubblico di nicchia, con maggiore possibilità di spesa? Se si, come si potrebbe ottenere una maggiore accessibilità di tali proposte?
Non ho la soluzione. L’industria intensiva e la GDO hanno proposte a basso costo che sono nocive per l’ambiente e l’alimentazione umana…finché esiste la possibilità di mangiare così a basso costo, utilizzare prodotti con molta forza lavoro per realizzare quella speciale lavorazione, o bio, o naturali, o scegliere di usare carne che costa perché più controllata… sarà difficile democratizzare le scelte. Anche per chi fa prodotti semplici ma buoni e sani, è difficile farli stare in piedi perché il costo del lavoro e della materia prima è alto.
Ci puoi consigliare un libro e un film per capire le sfide di chi fa ristorazione – oggi – in modo responsabile?
Come libro raccomando “L’ipocrisia dell’abbondanza” di Fabio Ciconte, oppure “Signori del cibo” o “Il grande carrello” di Stefano Liberti.
In generale vorrei dire che il tema principale è l’ignoranza sui sistemi alimentari che hanno anche le persone più colte…si ragiona in un ambito che ha a che fare col piacere ma in realtà se lo si vuole prendere sul serio, occorre che le politiche europee cambino tutto. Su questi temi, come su quello della biodiversità, serve uno sguardo creativo; la risposta non possono solo essere gli indennizzi verso i settori più danneggiati, perché così non cambierà nulla.
NB: le interviste qui riportate non fanno parte di servizi commerciali a pagamento. Esse hanno il solo scopo di condividere idee, progetti e riflessioni tra gli iscritti alla newsletter De-LAB.
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